Villa Barolo-an exotic seafood odyssey in Warrington.
By Sondra Schneider – Food Critic
Warminster Life Newspapers, December 2006
HIt is always a pleasure to write about a “good meal”. Such was the case when my husband and I dined at Villa Barolo in Warrington. Although only open for a little more than a year, I believe they are here to stay!
Occupying a location that in its past life was Vincent’s Warrington Inn, Marabella’s, and The Peninsula Club; it is now Villa Barolo Ristorante and Wine Bar. The owner is Chef Lo, whose former “home” was Marco Polo in Elkins Park. It was there that he built his sturdy reputation as a master chef and focused on the preparation and presentation of fresh fish.
At Villa Barolo, Chef Lo has put together a team of five chefs and a manager that have been with him for fifteen years. Both Chef Lo and manager John make sure they personally visit each table at least twice. The wait staff smoothly takes care of the patrons, trying to provide for their every request and anticipating their every need. Between the two of them and a very loyal, well-trained wait staff, including our waiter, Jim – they run a smooth-sailing tight ship.
As soon as we were seated, and our beverage order taken, fabulous olives and crusty Italian bread appeared. There is an extensive wine list and at least 30 wines available by the glass as well as a wide selection of beers. Each night there are three featured wines available by the glass or bottle. We tried a Brunello and a Sauvignon Blanc.
When it was time to order our food, we were overwhelmed by the large menu and the many daily additions. Villa Barolo serves authentic Italian cuisine, very imaginatively prepared. They have a European style raw bar and feature fresh, whole fish, filleted tableside. (They receive direct shipments of fresh fish seven days a week from Italy, Hawaii and East and West coast suppliers.) There is a list of at least six varieties of fresh oysters available by the piece ($2.50-$3.00 each) as well as a broad selection of antipasti/appetizers and soups. We chose the Fungi Repieni and Minestone.
Several large mushroom caps were stuffed with a side of light crabmeat mixture and baked. They were served on a nicely garnished plate and proved to be an excellent choice. The minestrone was a light tomato based broth with hearty chunks of vegetables and no pasta. It had a clean, fresh flavor.
For our entrees, we selected the Muscovy Duck and the Bronzino. The duck was sliced breast meat with a rich Balsamic red wine demi-glaze, served with oyster mushrooms, delicious mashed sweet potatoes and haricot vertes ($25.95). It was so good there was not a drop left on my husband’s plate.
Bronzino is a Mediterranean Sea Bass that is sweet and flaky. It was my choice out of eight fish that were available to be served whole, grilled and filleted tableside. Chef Lo himself did the tableside preparation. The fish was grilled to perfection, served with a splash of olive oil and lemon ($27.95). My request for a “double veggie” and no starch was pleasantly accommodated. Needless to say, I cleaned my plate as well.
In addition to the entrees we ordered, there was a huge selection of Chef Lo’s classics: filet of Opaka Paka from Hawaii, first cut veal chops, calves liver with bacon, farm raised ostrich, tenderloin of antelope, as well as the standard, but well prepared pastas, chicken, veal, beef and lamb dishes. All of the choices on this very extensive menu are well prepared by the staff of Asian chefs overseen by Chef Lo, who seems to be everywhere. There is an emphasis on quality, freshness, and consistency. (I made several visits to the restaurant and was impressed each time).
Since I am tempted by desserts, I easily succumbed to the Key Lime pie and apple cream pie. Although there is no baking on premises, both desserts were very good, especially the apple cream. We left nothing but a few crumbs.
Villa Barolo is a large, beautiful restaurant. They do not take reservations unless there are six or more people in your party. At the busiest time, Saturday night, there is usually less than a 20-minute wait. Should there be a wait of 30 minutes, Chef Lo serves complimentary hours d’oeuvres. Patrons can also view the kitchen on the large screen television in the lobby while waiting to be seated. It’s the next best thing to an open kitchen.
The restaurant is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. The lunch menu (Monday-Saturday) offers thirty different sandwiches, from the finest pastrami, corned beef, and turkey to filet mignon cheese steaks and burgers along with distinctive salads, pasta, chicken, veal, and steak selections.
Another unique offering is the late night bar menu available Sunday to Thursday from 8:30 to 10:00 p.m. The selections include everything from pasta and fish or organic game meats, all starting at $7.95—a good choice for the working professional who wants to have a light dinner after work.
Chef Lo, who lives in Jamison, knew just what Warrington needed. By working 100 hours a week, and constantly striving to perfect his restaurant, he has more than succeeded in filling that need. When speaking with him, one cannot help but be impressed by both his skill and enthusiasm.
On New Year’s Eve, Chef Lo is providing an ala carte menu and live music for dancing or listening. And the best part is there is no admission fee.
Villa Barolo Ristorante and Wine Bar is located at 1373 Easton Road, Warrington, corner of Rte. 611 and Bristol Road. There is plenty of free parking. For information call 215.491.9370. |
